Uncorking Iberia: From Crisp Albariños to Bold Tempranillos
I hope you took advantage of World Pinotage Day last Saturday and enjoyed a glass, or two, of South Africa’s finest. I certainly did. I opened a bottle of Beyerskloof Traildust 2018, and very nice it was too. Well rounded and oaky, with plenty of plum and chocolate notes. Lovely.
However, I digress. I wrote an article, a couple of weeks ago, about Tempranillo, but then World Vodka Day and World Pinotage Day reared their heads, and I put it away on the back burner. Revisiting it this week I thought I’d expand it to include Spanish wines in general.
I recall my first truly memorable experience with Spanish wine, that wasn’t Tempranillo. It was a balmy evening in Barcelona, at a small tapas bar tucked away in the Gothic Quarter. The waiter recommended a glass of Priorat to accompany my plate of jamón ibérico. That first sip was a revelation - rich, intense, with a minerality that spoke of its terroir. The way it complemented the nutty, melt in your mouth ham was nothing short of magical. The fact that it was produced only about 100 km away from where I was sitting probably helped too.
Since then, I've made it a point to explore Spanish wines whenever I can, and I can honestly say I've rarely been disappointed. From the crisp Albariños of Galicia to the robust Tempranillos of Rioja, Spanish wines offer a journey of flavours that's hard to match.
A Brief History: From Ancient Roots to Modern Renaissance
Spain's wine story began over 3,000 years ago when Phoenician traders introduced vines to the Iberian Peninsula. The Romans later expanded viticulture, establishing many of the wine regions still famous today. Despite challenges like the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century and political turmoil in the 20th, Spanish winemaking persevered.
The real renaissance began in the 1970s, and was accelerated by Spain's entry into the European Union in 1986. This brought investment, modern techniques, and a renewed focus on quality that has propelled Spanish wines to global acclaim.
Famous Fans and Interesting Facts
- Ernest Hemingway:A devoted fan of Spanish wines, particularly Rioja. He featured them prominently in his novel "The Sun Also Rises."
- Pablo Picasso:Often depicted wine and grapes in his artwork, drawing inspiration from Spanish wine culture.
- World's Oldest Wine: In 1970, divers discovered 2,600-year-old Phoenician shipwrecks off the coast of Alicante, containing remnants of wine mixed with herbs and resin.
- Largest Wine Region:Castilla-La Mancha is the largest wine region in the world, covering over 190,000 hectares.
- Tempranillo's Many Names:Spain's most famous grape, Tempranillo, goes by at least 60 different names across various regions, including Tinto Fino, Tinta del País, and Ull de Llebre.
- There's a lot of it about: Spain has the largest area under vine cultivation in the world, with approximately 941,000 hectares (2.3 million acres) as of 2020.
- It turns a profit: The wine industry contributes approximately 1% to Spain's GDP and provides employment to over 400,000 people directly and indirectly. Spanish wine exports reached a record 28.3 million hectoliters in 2023, valued at almost €3 billion.
Regions and Grapes: Spain's Viticultural Tapestry
Spain's diverse climate and geography create a rich tapestry of wine regions, each with its unique character. Here are some standouts:
- Rioja: Perhaps Spain's most famous wine region, known for its Tempranillo-based reds. The best Rioja Reserva I've tasted was a 2010 La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza" - a perfect balance of fruit, oak, and earthy notes. Best enjoyed out of a Riedel Syrah Glass
- Ribera del Duero: Another Tempranillo stronghold (known locally as Tinto Fino), producing powerful, complex reds. Try a Vega Sicilia "Unico" if you're feeling indulgent - it's a wine that can age beautifully for decades. Best enjoyed out of a Riedel Syrah Glass
- Priorat: Known for intense, mineral-driven reds from Garnacha and Cariñena. The 2015 Alvaro Palacios "L'Ermita" is a spectacular example, though admittedly with a price tag to match. I’ve just found a 900ml bottle for £5,990.00!
- Rías Baixas: Home to the crisp, aromatic Albariño. Pazo de Señorans makes an Albariño that's consistently excellent, with beautiful floral and citrus notes. Best enjoyed out of a Riedel Viognier or Riesling Glass
- Jerez: The home of Sherry, spanning styles from bone-dry Fino to lusciously sweet Pedro Ximénez. A glass of chilled Tio Pepe Fino on a hot day is hard to beat. Best enjoyed out of a Riedel Port Glass
The Art of Pairing: Spanish Wines and Cuisine
Spanish cuisine, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients and bold flavours, provides a perfect canvas for showcasing the country's wines. Here's a guide to pairing Spanish wines with both traditional and modern dishes:
Red Wines
Rioja Reserva
- Traditional pairing: Roast lamb with rosemary and garlic. The wine's balanced tannins and acidity cut through the rich meat, while its oak-aged notes complement the herb seasoning.
- Modern twist: Try with beef short ribs braised in Rioja wine. The dish's richness matches the wine's body, creating a harmonious pairing.
Ribera del Duero
- Traditional pairing: Lechazo asado (roast suckling lamb). The wine's robust character stands up to the rich, tender meat.
- Modern twist: Grilled portobello mushrooms with aged Manchego cheese. The umami flavours in the mushrooms bring out the wine's earthy notes.
Priorat
- Traditional pairing: Estofado de toro (bull stew). The wine's intensity matches the robust flavours of this hearty dish.
- Modern twist: Pair with a vegetarian black bean and sweet potato chilli. The wine's fruity notes contrast nicely with the spicy, earthy flavours of the dish.
White Wines
Albariño from Rías Baixas
- Traditional pairing: Pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus). The wine's crisp acidity and mineral notes complement the tender octopus and paprika seasoning.
- Modern twist: Try with Thai-style ceviche. The wine's aromatic profile pairs well with the dish's citrusy, spicy flavours.
Verdejo from Rueda
- Traditional pairing: Gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns). The wine's herbal notes enhance the garlic flavour, while its acidity cuts through the olive oil.
- Modern twist: Goat’s cheese and rocket salad with citrus vinaigrette. The wine's crisp character balances the creamy cheese and peppery greens.
Sparkling Wines
Cava
- Traditional pairing: Jamón ibérico and manchego cheese. The wine's bubbles cleanse the palate between bites of the rich ham and cheese.
- Modern twist: Tempura vegetables or sushi. The wine's acidity and effervescence complement the light, crispy batter and fresh fish.
Fortified Wines
Fino Sherry
- Traditional pairing: Boquerones (marinated anchovies) and olives. The wine's saline quality enhances these briny appetizers.
- Modern twist: Sushi, especially with wasabi. The wine's dry, nutty flavour stands up to the wasabi's heat and complements the fish.
Pedro Ximénez Sherry
- Traditional pairing: Blue cheese and nuts. The wine's sweetness balances the cheese's pungency.
- Modern twist: Drizzled over vanilla ice cream or used as a base for a duck breast sauce.
The Future of Spanish Wine and Cuisine
The Spanish wine industry continues to evolve, focusing on lesser-known indigenous varieties like Mencía (similar to Pinot Noir), Godello (like a fruity Chardonnay), and Bobal (a bit like a spicy Zinfandel). This trend opens up exciting new pairing possibilities, encouraging chefs and sommeliers to experiment with regional specialties and fusion cuisines.
Sustainable and organic viticulture is gaining prominence, reflecting a global shift towards environmental consciousness. This movement often results in wines with a purer expression of terroir, inspiring food pairings that highlight local, seasonal ingredients.
Wine tourism in Spain is flourishing, with many regions offering immersive experiences that combine wine tasting with culinary exploration. Visitors can enjoy farm-to-table meals paired with wines made from grapes grown in the very same soil, providing a true taste of Spain's diverse gastronomic landscape.
Conclusion
In the world of Spanish wine, every bottle tells a story - of tradition, innovation, and the unique landscapes that shape each flavour.
As you explore the rich reds of Rioja, the crisp whites of Rías Baixas, or the sparkling joy of Cava, remember that the magic of wine lies in the experience. Whether pairing with time-honoured dishes or experimenting with modern cuisine, the right wine enhances every moment.
So, raise a glass to Spain’s vinous treasures, and let your taste buds continue this Iberian extravaganza.
¡Salud, amor, pesetas y tiempo para disfrutarlos!
Which translates as “Health, love, money and time to enjoy them”.
I’ll drink to that!