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Rosé: The Pink Revolution

As Andrew (The Boss) is away this week, on his annual model railway Summer Retreat, I thought I'd take advantage of his absence and write about rosé.

 
He's (with tongue firmly in cheek, I'm sure) convinced that only me and a few other eccentrics drink rosé and my constant praise of it is a peculiar misfire in my wine addled brain.
 
So, while he's, hopefully, not looking, here goes.
 
Once dismissed as a frivolous summer drink, rosé has emerged as a serious contender, appreciated for its versatility, refreshing nature, and food-friendly characteristics. The "too pink, too girly and too sweet" reputation that it used to have has finally been shaken off. Improvements in the production of rosé wines together with a rising interest in dry, paler pink wines to be consumed throughout the year and not just in the summer have led to a prevalence in really crisp rosés, displaying summer fruit flavours and aromas often with ‘steely’, mineral notes that emphasise the dry, refreshing style. 
 
Where did it all begin?
The history of rosé wine is as colourful as its appearance. Originating from ancient times, rosé wine has been a part of winemaking since the Greeks and Romans.
 
These early winemakers often produced lighter-hued wines, mainly due to the rudimentary winemaking techniques that limited the time grape skins spent in contact with the juice.
 
As techniques evolved, regions like Provence in France became synonymous with producing high-quality rosé and by the Middle Ages, it had gained enough prominence to become a staple in the area. 
 
In the 17th and 18th centuries, the wines of Champagne were often pink due to the co-fermentation of white and red grapes. These were highly prized and more expensive than white wines.
 
By the 19th century, technological advancements and refined winemaking methods allowed for greater control over the colour and flavour of all wines, but especially rosé.
 
The early 20th century saw a dip in popularity as preferences shifted, but the creation of brands like Mateus Rosé (1942) and Lancers Rosé (1944) helped introduce sweet rosé to a wider audience, particularly in the United States and United Kingdom.

In 1975, Sutter Home's accidental creation of White Zinfandel, a sweet pink wine, became immensely popular in the U.S., though it also led to a perception of rosé as unsophisticated.

The early 2000s saw a significant resurgence in rosé's popularity, particularly driven by the high-quality dry rosés from Provence. This shift marked a return to more traditional, drier styles and today, rosé is celebrated globally, with the French drinking an average 20 bottles of rosé per person per year, or 36% of world consumption.
 
 
Production Methods:
There are four primary methods for producing rosé wine, each resulting in different flavour profiles and colour intensities:

Maceration (Skin Contact):
Process: Red grapes are crushed and the skins are left to macerate with the juice for a short period, typically 2-20 hours, before being pressed off.
Result: This method allows for greater control over colour and tannin extraction.
Common in: Provence and many other quality rosé-producing regions.
 
Saignée (Bleeding):
Process: During the production of red wine, some of the pink juice is bled off early in the process, which is then fermented into rosé.
Result: Often produces more intensely flavoured rosés, as it comes from grapes intended for red wine production.
Common in: Regions known for red wines, where rosé is a secondary product.
 
Blending:
Process: A small amount of red wine is blended into white wine.
Result: Can produce very consistent colour and flavour profiles.
Legality: This method is uncommon and even illegal in some regions for still rosé production, except in rosé Champagne production where it's the traditional method.
 
Field Blend:
Process: Red and white grapes are harvested and fermented together.
Result: Can produce complex and unique rosés.
Common in: Some traditional wine regions and among experimental winemakers.
 
Grape Varieties:
While rosé can be made from almost any red grape variety, some are more commonly used than others:
 
Grenache: The primary grape in many Provence rosés, known for its light colour and fruity flavours.
Syrah: Adds structure and red fruit notes.
Cinsault: Contributes delicacy and aromatic complexity.
Mourvèdre: Provides colour and tannic structure.
Tempranillo: Common in Spanish rosados.
Sangiovese: Used in Italian rosatos.
Pinot Noir: Popular for rosé production in cooler climates.
Cabernet Sauvignon: Can produce more full-bodied rosés.
Zinfandel: The grape behind White Zinfandel and other American rosés.

Rosé-Producing Regions:
While rosé is produced worldwide, some regions are particularly renowned:

Provence, France: The spiritual home of rosé, known for pale, dry, and elegant wines.
Languedoc-Roussillon, France: Produces a large volume of varied styles.
Loire Valley, France: Known for rosés made from Cabernet Franc and Grolleau.
Tavel, Rhône Valley, France: The only AOC dedicated solely to rosé production.
Navarra and Rioja, Spain: Produce fruity rosados, often from Garnacha and Tempranillo.
Italy: Various regions produce rosatos, with styles varying greatly.
United States: From White Zinfandel to premium dry rosés, particularly from California and Oregon.
Australia: Emerging as a quality rosé producer, often using Grenache and Shiraz.
South Africa: Produces a range of styles, often from Pinotage.

A Few Interesting Facts and Figures:
  • The oldest known rosé wine is believed to be from 600 BC, discovered in a cellar near Marseille, France.
  • Contrary to stereotypes, about 45% of rosé drinkers in the U.S. are men, according to a 2015 study, with the term Brosé being coined for the increasing popularity of rosé among male drinkers,
  • From 2015 to 2020, the global rosé market grew by 40%, faster than any other type of wine.
  • Rosé can be still, semi-sparkling or sparkling, and range from bone-dry to sweet. The residual sugar can vary from less than 1 g/L to over 50 g/L in sweeter styles.
  • The ideal serving temperature for most rosés is between 4-10°C (40-50°F), cooler than most white wines but warmer than sparkling wines.
  • While most rosés are meant to be consumed young, some high-quality rosés, particularly those from Bandol in Provence, can age for several years.
  • After France and the U.S., Germany, the UK, and the Netherlands round out the top five largest markets for rosé consumption.
  • In 2023, rosé Champagne represented around 14% of UK Champagne consumption, up from 3.2% in 2000.
 
Tasting and Appreciation:
Understanding how to taste and appreciate rosé can enhance the drinking experience:
 
Visual Assessment:
Colour can range from pale peach to deep salmon or light purple, but the intensity of colour doesn't necessarily indicate quality or sweetness.

Nose (Aroma):
Common aromas include red fruits (strawberry, raspberry, cherry), citrus, flowers, and herbs. Some rosés may have mineral or saline notes.

Palate (Taste):
Flavours often mirror the aromas. Acidity is typically medium to high, contributing to freshness. Body can range from light to medium. Finish is usually crisp and clean in dry styles.

Food Pairing:
Rosé is, in general, a very food-friendly wine though of course different styles of rosé suit different dishes.
 
Provence wines and other lighter styles match well with summer foods like salad, seafood, fish, shellfish, chicken, dried meats, feta and goats’ cheese, tomatoes, grilled vegetables and herbs, but will also be a fantastic accompaniment to duck, pork and lamb as long as the sauces served with them are not too strongly flavoured.
 
The off-dry and fruitier styles cope well with spicy food such as mild curries and tapas and the fuller-bodied wines with stronger flavours are great with roast and grilled meats, game, garlic, stronger herbs and most barbecue foods. 
 
As a general rule, think about the local cuisine of the region of origin of your rosé. 
 
Sustainability and Future Trends:
The rosé industry is also adapting to changing consumer preferences and environmental concerns:
 
Organic and Biodynamic Production: Many rosé producers are adopting organic and biodynamic practices to meet consumer demand for sustainable wines.

Climate Change Adaptation: Winemakers are experimenting with different grape varieties and vineyard techniques to maintain rosé quality in the face of changing climates.

Lower Alcohol Trends: Some producers are focusing on lower-alcohol rosés to cater to health-conscious consumers.

Innovative Blends: Winemakers are experimenting with unusual grape combinations to create unique rosé profiles.

Premium Market Growth: While entry-level, drink it now rosés remain popular, there's a growing market for high-end, age-worthy rosés.

Alternative Packaging: Eco-friendly packaging options like cans, boxes, and lightweight bottles are becoming more common in the rosé market.

So, no longer relegated to a mere summer sipper, rosé has established itself as a versatile, high-quality wine category appreciated by connoisseurs and casual drinkers alike. Its influence extends beyond the glass, impacting fashion, social media, and culinary trends.

As production techniques continue to evolve, new regions are embracing rosé production, and as consumer preferences shift, the future looks bright (and pink).

The ongoing innovation in rosé production, coupled with increasing focus on quality and sustainability, suggests that rosé will continue to play a significant role in the global wine landscape for years to come.

Whether enjoyed on a sun-drenched terrace, paired with a gourmet meal, or even savoured during a cozy winter evening, rosé has truly become a wine for all seasons and occasions (and not just in my house!).

Its journey from ancient times to Instagram fame is testament to its enduring ability to adapt, evolve, and capture the imagination of each new generation of wine lovers.

Cheers!

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1 comment

  • Very informative article.
    My wife and I drink a fair amount of Rosè.
    We drink Domaine d l’ile from Porquerolles from the Chanel Vineyard and Garrus from Declans.
    We had Garrus last week at the French Laundry restaurant in Yountville Napa Valley for my wife’s birthday.
    Thoroughly recommend a trip to Napa to explore the excellent vineyards.

    John Brooks

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