Pinotage: The Wine That Stole My Heart in a London Cellar

Today (the second Saturday in October) is World Pinotage Day, and a great excuse for me to write about one of my favourite wines.

When reading my article about the wines of Crete a few weeks ago, The Boss questioned whether the Tatakis Ghost, that I was raving about, was actually that good. Or was it the combination of a beautiful setting, a beautiful companion and sunshine that had elevated it in my mind. I confessed that we had brought a bottle home, and it was just as memorable in Surrey as it was in Heraklion.

This got me thinking about my first bottle of Pinotage.

So, why am I such a fan?

A Brief History: From Experiment to Icon

Pinotage's story begins in 1925 when Professor Abraham Izak Perold, the first professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University, decided to cross two grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Cinsault (then known as Hermitage in South Africa). His goal? To create a wine that combined the elegance of Pinot Noir with the robust growing ability of Cinsault.

The result was Pinotage, a grape that would go on to become South Africa's signature variety.

The extra punch from the Cinsault means that the best glass to drink Pinotage from is the classic Cabernet Sauvignon / Bordeaux shape.

The first wine from this grape variety was made in 1941 at the Elsenburg and Kanonkop Estate. But it wasn’t until the 1950’s that Pinotage started to make its presence felt in the wine industry.

In 1959 a Pinotage wine from Cloof Cellar (now KWV) won the General Smuts Trophy at the Cape Wine Show, one of South Africa’s most prestigious wine awards. This put Pinotage in the spotlight and cemented its place as South Africa’s signature grape. By the 1960’s it had become the face of South African wine, representing the country’s ability to produce world class wines that were uniquely South African. And in the 1991 International Wine and Spirit Competition, the 1987 Kanonkop Pinotage became the first Pinotage to win the Robert Mondavi Trophy for the best red wine.

Although Pinotage’s heartland will always be South Africa, it is now grown in Brazil, Canada, Germany, Israel, New Zealand, Switzerland, the United States, Zimbabwe and even the UK.

What Makes Pinotage Special?

Pinotage is known for its bold flavours and deep colour. When you pour a glass, you'll notice its intense, almost inky, purple-red hue. On the nose, Pinotage often presents a complex bouquet of red and black fruits, with notes of banana, tropical fruits, with sometimes a distinctive smoky or meaty character, and even banana and acetone sneaking in there.

The flavour profile of Pinotage can vary depending on the winemaking style, but you can generally expect:

• Rich, ripe fruit flavours like blackberry, cherry, and plum.
• Earthy undertones with hints of tobacco, leather and coffee (maybe that’s why I like it so much!)
• A unique savoury quality, sometimes described as smoky or meaty
• A full-bodied texture with firm tannins

Pinotage and Food: A Match Made in Culinary Heaven

Now, let's talk about the real joy of Pinotage - pairing it with food. This versatile wine can complement a wide range of dishes, particularly those with bold, rich flavours. Here are some pairings that will make your next meal (and glass of Pinotage) something to remember:

Braai: The Ultimate South African Pairing

Nothing says South Africa quite like a braai (barbecue), and nothing pairs with a braai quite like Pinotage. The wine's bold flavours and smoky notes are a perfect match for grilled meats.

• Boerewors: This traditional South African sausage, with its spicy and savoury taste, is beautifully complemented by a glass of Pinotage. The wine's fruitiness balances the meat's richness, while its smoky notes enhance the grilled flavours.
• Lamb Chops: The rich, slightly gamey flavour of grilled lamb chops finds a worthy partner in Pinotage. The wine's tannins cut through the fattiness of the lamb, while its fruit notes add a delicious contrast.

Game Meats: Embracing the Wild Side

Pinotage's robust character makes it an excellent choice for pairing with game meats, especially those that are popular in South African cuisine.

• Ostrich Steak: The lean, beef-like flavour of ostrich pairs wonderfully with Pinotage. The wine's fruit-forward profile complements the meat's subtle gamey notes, while its structure stands up to the protein.
• Venison Pie: A hearty venison pie, with its rich, complex flavours, finds a perfect match in Pinotage. The wine's earthy notes complement the gamey meat, while its acidity cuts through the richness of the pie crust.

Vegetarian Options: Yes, Pinotage Can Do That Too!

Don't worry, vegetarians – Pinotage isn't just for meat lovers. Its versatility extends to plant-based dishes as well.

• Grilled Portobello Mushrooms: The meaty texture and earthy portobello mushroom pairs beautifully with Pinotage. Try them grilled with herbs and a balsamic glaze for a delicious vegetarian main that stands up to this bold wine.
• Lentil and Vegetable Bobotie: This vegetarian version of the classic South African dish (not dissimilar to moussaka), with its spicy-sweet flavour profile, is complemented nicely by Pinotage's fruity notes and structure.

Cheese: A Classic Combination

Like many red wines, Pinotage shines when paired with the right cheeses.

• Aged Cheddar: The sharp, tangy flavours of a well-aged cheddar are a great match for Pinotage. The wine's fruit flavours contrast nicely with the sharpness of the cheese, while its tannins cleanse the palate.
• Smoked Gouda: The smoky notes in both the cheese and the wine create a harmonious pairing, with the wine's fruitiness providing a pleasant contrast.

Exploring Different Styles of Pinotage

While we often think of Pinotage as a bold, full-bodied red wine, innovative South African winemakers are now producing it in a variety of styles:

• Traditional Full-Bodied Red: This is the classic style, with rich fruit flavours, firm tannins, and often a touch of oak aging.
• Lighter, Fresher Styles: Some producers are making Pinotage in a lighter, more Pinot Noir-like style, emphasizing fresh fruit flavours and minimizing oak influence.
• Rosé: Yes, Pinotage makes a delightful rosé! Expect fresh red fruit flavours with a crisp, dry finish.
• Cape Blend: This is a style of red blend where Pinotage plays a starring role, often combined with other varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz.

Pinotage is more than just a wine – it's a testament to South African innovation and perseverance in viticulture. Its unique taste profile and versatility in food pairing make it a fascinating wine to explore.

Whether you're firing up the grill for a braai, preparing a hearty game dish, or just looking for something new and exciting to try, Pinotage deserves a place at your table. Don't be afraid to experiment with different styles and pairings – you might just discover your new favourite wine!

The next time you're browsing in the wine shop, reach for a bottle of Pinotage. Pour a glass, take a sip, and let your taste buds embark on a journey to the sun-soaked vineyards of South Africa.

So, cheers to Pinotage another South African great, worthy of standing alongside Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu, Steve Biko, Oti Mabuse and Francois Pienaar!