Discover Pinot Grigio's Hidden Depths: Far More Than Summer Sipping

As we find ourselves on the cusp of summer, with temperatures soaring and your outdoor dining (hopefully) in full swing, I thought it was apt that we take a look at Pinot Grigio. Also, the fact that today is National Pinot Grigio Day played right into my hands when I was scratching my head for something to write about, earlier in the week.

The world of Pinot Grigio has undergone a remarkable transformation in recent years. Once dismissed as merely a simple, neutral white wine destined for casual drinking, today's fine Pinot Grigio expressions reveal extraordinary diversity and character. From the mineral-laden, structured wines of Alto Adige and Friuli with their notes of crisp orchard fruits and stony precision, to the opulent, textural Pinot Gris interpretations from Alsace showing exotic stone fruits, honey and spice, these wines now command serious attention from critics and collectors alike. The spectrum extends further with copper-hued "ramato" styles from northeastern Italy, offering delicate red fruit characteristics thanks to extended skin contact, while cool-climate regions like Germany, New Zealand and Canada are producing versions with remarkable tension and purity. This chameleon-like adaptability explains how a single grape variety can express such dramatically different personalities depending on terroir, winemaking philosophy, and cultural tradition.

When I first encountered Pinot Grigio I, like many, assumed it was all simple, neutral plonk destined for ice-filled glasses at summer parties. But I've discovered how a grape often dismissed as bland has multiple personalities depending on where and how it's grown, and how it has quietly revolutionised the accessibility of wine for an entire generation of drinkers.

The Identity Crisis: One Grape, Three Names, Countless Styles

Pinot Grigio's story begins with a bit of an identity crisis.

Known as Pinot Grigio in Italy, Pinot Gris in France, and Grauburgunder in Germany and Austria, it's actually a colour mutation of Pinot Noir that emerged in Burgundy during the Middle Ages.

The grape itself is not white at all – it's pinkish-grey in colour (hence the name "gris" or "grigio," meaning grey). This genetic quirk gives winemakers flexibility in stylistic expression, from the water-pale Italian versions to copper-hued skin-contact versions.

Like other chameleon grapes, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio has faced scepticism about its ability to produce truly distinctive wines. Yet through regional expression, varying winemaking techniques, and a deep understanding of its versatility, producers have transformed these challenges into advantages.

The breakthrough moment for modern Pinot Grigio came in the 1970’s and 80’s when Santa Margherita's crisp, easy-drinking style conquered the American market, becoming one of the most successful imported wine brands in US history.

This success, similar to Cloudy Bay's later triumph with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, proved that approachable, distinctively styled wines could achieve both commercial success and critical recognition.

Veneto (Italy) represents a different face of Pinot Grigio, responsible for the majority of production and the style most wine drinkers first encounter. While often criticised for prioritising quantity over quality, the best producers create fresh, unpretentious wines that perfectly capture the easy-drinking appeal that made the grape famous.

Alsace (France), where the grape is known as Pinot Gris, showcases perhaps the most dramatic transformation of the variety. Here, the wines are rich, sometimes off-dry, with luscious textures and exotic fruit profiles that bear little resemblance to their Italian counterparts. Trimbach's Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle demonstrates how understanding local conditions can lead to exceptional winemaking.

Oregon (USA) has emerged as an exciting new frontier for the grape, where innovative winemakers are crafting wines that balance the richness of Alsace with the freshness of Italy, creating a distinctly New World expression.

A Tale of Two Styles: Comparing Italian and Alsatian Approaches

The contrast between Italian Pinot Grigio and Alsatian Pinot Gris becomes particularly apparent when comparing their technical profiles.

The numbers tell an illuminating story about these two wine styles:

These figures highlight several interesting points about Pinot Grigio's dual personality.

Despite coming from the same grape, the differing philosophy and terroir create wines that could easily be mistaken for different varieties altogether. Italian versions typically emphasise freshness and immediate appeal, while Alsatian examples showcase complexity and age-worthiness.

The yield differences are particularly telling – Alsatian producers typically harvest fewer grapes per hectare, resulting in more concentrated flavours and richer textures. The higher potential alcohol and residual sugar further amplify this difference in approach.

However, these statistics also reveal different strategic approaches to the marketplace.

Italy's lighter, fresher style has conquered international markets through accessibility and consistency, while Alsace's richer, more complex approach commands higher prices but appeals to a narrower audience of enthusiasts.

Both approaches have proved successful, demonstrating that Pinot Grigio can find different paths to excellence.

Innovation in Action: Modern Pinot Grigio Techniques

Innovative producers across the globe are now redefining what Pinot Grigio can be:

• Extended skin contact in Friulian "ramato" (copper-coloured) styles
• Wild fermentation with indigenous yeasts for complexity
• Amphora aging, reviving ancient techniques
• High-altitude plantings pushing the boundaries of viticulture

Famous Fans

Pinot Grigio has attracted notable supporters:

• Jancis Robinson has praised top examples from Alto Adige as "serious wines worthy of aging"
• The late Anthony Bourdain was known to appreciate Friulian Pinot Grigio with rustic Italian cuisine
• Stanley Tucci featured elegant Pinot Grigio prominently in his culinary travel programme “Searching for Italy”
• Elena Walch, regarded as the "Grande Dame" of Italian winemaking, received the Gambero Rosso "Three Glasses" award multiple times for her single-vineyard Pinot Grigios

Pinot Grigio's Versatile Place at the Table

Pinot Grigio's chameleon-like nature extends beautifully to the dining table, where its various expressions can complement an impressive range of cuisines. Understanding the style you're working with is key to creating magical food and wine experiences.

Classic Italian Pinot Grigio Pairings

The crisp, mineral-forward Pinot Grigios from Alto Adige and Friuli shine alongside:

• Seafood antipasti: From delicate crudo and oysters to grilled calamari, shrimp and scampi, these wines cut through richness while highlighting the sea's natural sweetness
• Alpine cheeses: Regional cheeses like Asiago and Montasio create a perfect “what grows together goes together” pairing
• Fresh pasta with light sauces: Think lemon and herb-infused pasta, seafood linguine, or the classic spaghetti alle vongole

Alsatian Pinot Gris: Bold Flavours for Bold Wines

The richer, more aromatic Alsatian expressions can stand up to heavier dishes:

• Alsatian classics: Naturally wonderful with tarte flambée, choucroute garnie, and Münster cheese
• Aromatic Asian cuisines: Thai, Vietnamese, and mild Indian dishes with lemongrass, ginger, and coconut elements
• Roasted poultry: Particularly with fruit components like apple, pear, or apricot

Skin-Contact "Ramato" Styles: Bridging White and Red Wine Territory

These copper-hued versions offer exciting crossover pairing possibilities:

• Charcuterie boards: The slight tannic structure complements cured meats beautifully
• Tomato-based dishes: Where many whites struggle, ramato styles thrive with caprese salad (mozzarella, tomatoes, and sweet basil, seasoned with salt and olive oil) or simple tomato-based pastas
• Grilled vegetables: Especially those with slight char and olive oil, think barbecued aubergines, courgettes and peppers

The Versatility Factor: When In Doubt

For those everyday Pinot Grigios that deliver refreshing simplicity:

• Fresh salads: From Niçoise to Greek, the wine's bright acidity matches vinaigrette dressings
• Light picnic fare: Cold chicken, quiches, and summer vegetable tarts
• Simple weeknight meals: Roast chicken, pan-seared fish, or vegetable risottos

A Chef's Perspective

Acclaimed Italian chef Massimo Bottura (holder of three Michelin stars and voted “the world’s best chef by the world's best chefs”) notes, "What makes Pinot Grigio exceptional for pairing is its chameleon quality - it can disappear into the background allowing the food to shine, or with the right expression, become a compelling counterpoint to a dish."

The key to successful pairing lies in matching weight with weight - delicate dishes with lighter styles, substantial foods with richer versions. Yet Pinot Grigio's natural acidity and generally moderate alcohol ensure it rarely overwhelms even the most delicate flavours.

Whether you're enjoying a simple aperitivo moment with Italian Pinot Grigio and olives, or creating a gastronomic experience pairing a complex Alsatian Pinot Gris with duck confit, this versatile grape offers a companion for nearly every culinary adventure - further proof of its rightful place among the world's most adaptable wine varieties.

Climate Change: A Double-Edged Sword

Climate change has emerged as both a challenge and an opportunity for innovation in Pinot Grigio production. Warming temperatures threaten the delicate balance in traditional regions, where too much heat can diminish the grape's characteristic acidity and aromatics.

In Veneto and parts of Friuli, harvest dates have advanced by nearly two weeks over the past three decades, forcing producers to adapt their practices. Some are moving to higher ground, while others are experimenting with different training systems to provide more shade for the grapes.

However, climate shifts are simultaneously opening new frontiers for cultivation. Regions once considered too cold for reliable ripening, like England and parts of Germany, are now successfully growing Pinot Grigio/Grauburgunder. In England, producers like Chapel Down are creating vibrant wines with pronounced mineral characteristics that recall the best of Alto Adige.

The extended growing seasons have become a particular blessing for producers in marginal climates, allowing for more consistent ripening and greater complexity in the finished wines. Yet these opportunities come with their own set of challenges, requiring winemakers to stay agile and continuously refine their techniques.

The Future: Writing Pinot Grigio's Next Chapter

As Pinot Grigio enters its next phase, the variety's versatility continues to inspire innovation. Natural wine producers have embraced the grape for orange wine production, creating textured, complex wines that are expanding the appeal of the variety.

Sustainable practices have moved to the forefront of this evolution. Organic and biodynamic viticulture is gaining momentum, with producers like Alois Lageder in Alto Adige demonstrating that careful environmental management can enhance wine quality. Their holistic approach not only produces exceptional Pinot Grigios, but also helps build resilience against climate instability.

Perhaps most exciting is the exploration of terroir expression. Increasingly, producers are bottling single-vineyard Pinot Grigios that showcase distinctive site characteristics. In Collio, near the Slovenian border, winemakers are highlighting how different soil types – from the calcium-rich "ponca" marl to iron-rich "terra rossa" – create dramatically different representations of the same grape.

Understanding and working with local conditions has proved crucial. Rather than attempting to replicate successful commercial styles, thoughtful vintners have focused on allowing Pinot Grigio to express itself. This approach has been supported by significant investment in research at institutions like the Edmund Mach Foundation in Trentino, providing scientific backing for quality-focused development.

And what did Eric Asimov of The New York Times write in a recent column?

"The best Pinot Grigios, particularly from Alto Adige and Friuli, can be revelatory - wines of precision and character that bear little resemblance to the mass-market versions that have dominated the American perception of this much-maligned grape. And they've only been improving in recent years."

Well, if it's good enough for Eric...

So, the next time you're browsing the wine shelves, look beyond the generic Pinot Grigio, and try an Alto Adige single-vineyard example, a copper-hued Friulian "ramato," or an Alsatian Pinot Gris.

You'll discover why Pinot Grigio, despite its sometimes maligned reputation, remains one of the most fascinatingly adaptable grapes in the world.

Here's to Pinot Grigio – proof that with regional expression, thoughtful winemaking, and appreciation of versatility, even the most familiar grape can continuously surprise and delight.

As they say in Italy, "Salute!"