Brandy vs Cognac vs Armagnac

I was doing some work on the website the other day and went looking for an article to recommend to customers who'd bought brandy glasses.

And guess what? There wasn't one.

I've written about whisky, port, vodka, gin, even tequila. Somewhere along the way I'd clearly done the brandy research... and then never actually turned it into anything useful.

Let's fix that.

Walk into any decent wine shop and you'll find shelves of Cognac, Armagnac, and brandy from around the world. Most people grab a bottle of Hennessy because they recognise the name and move on.

Which is a shame, because behind those bottles lies one of the most fascinating stories in spirits.

So, let's take a look at how distilled wine became France's most sophisticated export, why one region's brandy costs £200 whilst another's costs £35, and most importantly, how to drink brandy properly without the nonsense about warming glasses in your hands.

What Actually Is Brandy?

Brandy is distilled wine. Take wine, distil it to concentrate the alcohol and flavours, age it in oak barrels, and you've got brandy.

The word comes from the 16th-century Dutch brandewijn, meaning "burnt wine." Dutch merchants needed to transport French wine without spoilage, so they boiled it down to create a concentrated spirit. The plan was to add water back at the destination.

Then it was discovered that storing it in oak barrels during transport actually improved the flavour dramatically. What arrived wasn't degraded wine but something worth drinking in its own right.

Brandy transformed from a shipping solution into a sophisticated spirit.

Modern definitions are straightforward: brandy is any spirit distilled from grapes and aged in oak. If it's made from other fruits (apples, cherries, pears), it must carry the fruit name: apple brandy, cherry brandy.

The French Hierarchy

Within the broad brandy category lie France's two most prestigious designations: Cognac and Armagnac. These aren't just regional names – they're legally protected Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC), meaning everything from soil to still geometry is regulated.

Think of it like Champagne and sparkling wine: all Champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is Champagne. All Cognac is brandy, but calling Spanish brandy "Cognac" would be illegal.

The difference between Cognac and Armagnac represents two different philosophies: Cognac's pursuit of international refinement and consistency, versus Armagnac's dedication to artisanal complexity and terroir expression.

Cognac: The Double-Distilled Elegant One

Cognac comes from the Cognac region northeast of Bordeaux. It's made following strict rules: specific grapes (98% Ugni Blanc), double distillation in copper pot stills, and minimum oak ageing.

Cognac produces over 200 million bottles annually. About 98% is exported.

It's a massive global luxury industry.

Why It Tastes the Way It Does

The elegance comes from double distillation. First distillation produces brouillis at around 28-32% ABV – cloudy and harsh.

Second distillation refines this, with the master distiller separating the "heads" (too harsh) and "tails" (too heavy) from the "heart" – the middle portion that becomes Cognac.

Only the heart is kept, at 70-72% ABV. This double refinement strips away heavier oils and impurities, creating exceptionally pure, smooth, elegant spirit. The trade-off? Less flavour intensity than single-distilled spirits.

Terroir Matters

The Cognac region divides into six crus based on soil quality. The best is Grande Champagne – highest chalk content, producing the finest, most elegant Cognacs with extraordinary ageing potential. Nothing to do with sparkling wine, "champagne" here means "open countryside."

Petite Champagne is similar but slightly less concentrated. Borderies (the smallest cru) produces softer Cognacs with distinctive violet notes. The outer areas (Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Bois Ordinaires) produce lighter spirits mainly for blending.

If a label says "Fine Champagne," it means only Grande and Petite Champagne grapes, with at least 50% from Grande Champagne. That's a quality indicator worth recognising (and looking out for).

Who Makes It

Four houses dominate:

• Hennessy (50 million bottles annually)
• Rémy Martin (Fine Champagne specialists)
• Martell (oldest house, founded 1715)
• Courvoisier

Together they control about 80% of the market.

Smaller houses worth seeking out are Hine (elegant, refined), Delamain (Grande Champagne specialists, family-owned since 1759), Pierre Ferrand (traditional methods, excellent value), and Frapin (estate-grown, single-estate Cognac).

Independent bottlers like Grosperrin are releasing single-cask expressions with complete transparency, thus changing the game like craft distillers did with whisky. If the big houses are blended for consistency, independent bottlers are about honesty and individuality.

Armagnac: The Single-Distilled Character Spirit

Armagnac is France's oldest brandy, dating to at least the 15th century and older than Cognac by two centuries. Despite this, it remains far less known internationally, producing just 3-6 million bottles annually compared to Cognac's 200 million.

It comes from Gascony in southwest France. The terroir is completely different: continental climate (hotter summers, colder winters) and sandy soils rich in iron oxide, rather than Cognac's chalky limestone.

Single Distillation Creates Different Character

Armagnac's traditional single distillation in a continuous column still creates its distinctive character. About 95% of Armagnac remains single-distilled.

It's a matter of regional pride.

Armagnac exits the still at 52-60% ABV compared to Cognac's 70-72%. This lower proof means more flavour compounds survive. Because it's distilled only once, Armagnac retains significantly more congeners (the substances that give alcoholic drinks their distinctive flavours, aromas, and colours), leading to a spirit that's more robust, earthy, and richly textured.

Think of Cognac as a tailored suit, and Armagnac as a well-worn leather jacket.

The Grape Diversity

Where Cognac is 98% Ugni Blanc, Armagnac celebrates diversity. Ugni Blanc accounts for about 55%, but producers also use Folle Blanche (highly aromatic, floral), Baco (a unique hybrid that provides roundness and dark fruit notes), and Colombard (spicy, herbal).

Baco is particularly fascinating. It's the only hybrid permitted in French AOC spirits anywhere and creates character you simply cannot get from Cognac.

Vintage Dating

Unlike Cognac, Armagnac frequently carries vintage dates. You can buy 1985 Armagnac that was distilled in 1985 and aged continuously since. This makes it more like single malt Scotch – each bottle tells the story of a specific harvest.

Because Armagnac starts at lower proof, it can reach bottling strength (40-48%) naturally through evaporation over 20-30 years, requiring minimal water addition. This preserves more of the original character.

Who Makes It

Château de Laubade is one of the most widely recognised, producing excellent estate-grown Armagnac. Delord makes brilliant value Armagnac – their VSOP genuinely rivals £70 Cognac at £35.

Darroze is a négociant sourcing and bottling exceptional single-cask Armagnacs from small producers.

Understanding Quality Levels (VS, VSOP, XO)

Both Cognac and Armagnac use age classifications referring to the youngest spirit in any blend. In 2018, both regions updated their rules.

VS (Very Special): Aged minimum 2 years. Entry-level. Fine for mixing, too harsh for neat drinking.

VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale): Aged minimum 4 years. This is the value sweet spot. Good VSOP is excellent neat or in cocktails. Average age usually 5-10 years despite the 4-year minimum.

XO (Extra Old): The big 2018 change – minimum age increased from 6 to 10 years. This is where brandy gets serious. Complex, smooth, elegant. Average age typically 15-25 years.

Hors d'Âge: "Beyond age." Officially 10 years minimum (same as XO), but represents the producer's finest expressions, often 30-50+ years old.

What This Means for You

These are minimum ages for the youngest spirit. A VSOP might contain 4-year-old brandy blended with 10, 15, or 20-year-old stocks. The designation is the floor, not the ceiling.

One house's VSOP might surpass another's entry-level XO, depending on blending quality.

How to Actually Drink Brandy

Most people drink brandy incorrectly. Let's fix that.

Temperature

Room temperature is fine. Slightly below (16-18°C) is even better.

Do NOT warm the glass. That image of someone cradling a brandy snifter, warming it with body heat? Terrible advice. Heating brandy volatilises alcohol too quickly, creating harsh vapours that mask delicate aromatics.

If your brandy needs warming to taste acceptable, it's not good brandy.

Adding Water or Ice

Most Cognac bottles at 40% ABV so you shouldn't need water.

However, cask-strength brandy (50%+ ABV) benefits from a few drops. Add it, literally, drop by drop until it tastes best.

Never add ice. Ice numbs your palate and kills aromatics. If you want cooled brandy, use whisky stones.

How to Nose and Taste

Pour 30-40ml. Swirl gently and let it rest for a minute.

Sniff with your mouth slightly open – this prevents alcohol overwhelming your senses. Take short sniffs rather than deep inhalations.

You're identifying: dried fruit (apricots, figs, prunes), baking spices (cinnamon, nutmeg), vanilla and oak, floral notes, and in older expressions, leather, tobacco, and rancio (a complex, funky character from extended ageing).

Taste by taking a small sip and coating your mouth. Hold it for several seconds. The finish (what happens after swallowing) is as important as initial flavour.

Why the Right Glass Matters

The traditional brandy snifter with its massive balloon bowl and narrow rim was designed in the 19th century when brandy was rougher and needed warming.

They're iconic, recognisable, and frankly still beautiful pieces of glassware.

But for actually tasting modern Cognac and Armagnac?

They're not ideal.

The narrow rim concentrates alcohol vapours too aggressively, overwhelming the delicate aromatics that make quality brandy interesting. Today's refined spirits don't need the same treatment as 19th-century firewater.

Better Options

Tulip-shaped glass: Wider bowl that narrows toward the rim and finishes with a slight flare. Perfect for Cognac and Armagnac. Allows aromatics to develop without overwhelming alcohol. Riedel's Cognac glasses use this shape for precisely this reason.

Glencairn style glass: Originally designed for whisky but works beautifully with brandy. Wide bowl, tapered rim.

Whatever you use, ensure it's spotlessly clean. Hand wash with hot water only – no detergent residue.

What to Buy

If You're New to Brandy

Start with quality VSOP. It's complex enough to appreciate neat, affordable enough to explore different producers.

Cognac VSOP: Rémy Martin VSOP, Hine VSOP, Pierre Ferrand Ambre (all £35-50)

Armagnac VSOP: Delord VSOP, Château de Laubade VSOP (£30-40)

If You Want to Splurge

Cognac XO: Rémy Martin XO, Martell Cordon Bleu, Delamain Pale & Dry XO (£100-150)

Armagnac XO or Vintage: Darroze 20-year, Delord 25-year, Château de Laubade 1985 (£80-150)

The 2018 regulatory changes moved XO from 6 to 10 years minimum. What you're buying now as XO is genuinely older than a decade ago. The industry is moving toward transparency, with independent bottlers releasing single-cask expressions with complete provenance.

What to Avoid

Celebrity-endorsed Cognac with luxury packaging – you're paying for marketing.

"Cooking brandy" – it's terrible.

Anything labelled just "brandy" without regional designation is usually an industrial blend.

What Really Matters

Brandy represents one of wine's most sophisticated evolutions.

What began as a pragmatic shipping solution became an art form – capturing grape character through distillation, developing complexity through oak ageing, creating spirits that range from approachable VSOP to profound aged versions.

For those new to brandy: start with quality VSOP. It demonstrates what makes brandy interesting without requiring £150+ investment.

For enthusiasts: explore Armagnac. At 1/50th Cognac's production scale, it offers extraordinary value. Single-vintage expressions from great years can be remarkable.

And regardless of experience: ditch the balloon snifter, don't warm brandy in your hands, and use a proper glass.

So, that's what good brandy is. And that's why it deserves better than being the dusty bottle at the back of your drinks cabinet.