Beyond Ouzo: Why Cretan Wines Are Greece's Best-Kept Secret

When thinking about Greece and drinking, most of us, typically, think about Mythos beer, retsina, raki and the dreaded ouzo .

Having just spent a delightful couple of weeks in Crete, I’m very pleased to tell you that there is so much more to enjoy.

Although evidence of winemaking has been found on Crete dating back to the Bronze Age, (making it one of Europe’s oldest known wine regions) a convergence of political and environmental factors, plus a shifting tourism landscape, means that the modern era of Cretan winemaking is still, effectively, in its infancy.

This, in large part, is because phylloxera* only arrived in Crete in 1977 - well over a century after it plagued Europe’s mainland - wiping out Crete’s vineyards at a time when European wines were rising in popularity worldwide. While devastating to the agricultural industry of Greece’s largest island, this outbreak, timed with the end of Greek dictatorship, plus the growth of post Second World War tourism across Europe, created a clean slate for young, ambitious winemakers.

*The 1860’s saw phylloxera annihilate much of Europe's vineyards, to the point where it was feared they may never recover! This insect, native to North America, feeds on the roots of vines and allows the plant to become infected; there is no cure once this has begun. Swathes of European vineyards were laid low and by the end, the vast majority had to be completely replanted from scratch.

The last 20 to 30 years have seen 4,200 hectares of vines planted, producing over 2,500,000 bottles per year, by 30 different winemakers. The 11 indigenous grape varieties (7 white and 4 red) means that there’s something for everyone.

We visited the Titakis Winery, in the mountains south of Iraklion (well worth a visit), which was founded in 1952 and is now overseen by the third generation of the family. When, in my Sauvignon Blanc article last month, I said that I was looking forward to a glass or two of local wine with a Greek salad, The Boss was more than a little sceptical about just how enjoyable that might be.

Well, the results are in…… it was very enjoyable indeed!

Whilst not actually Sauvignon Blanc, the Titakis Ghost! white wine, made from 100% indigenous Malvasia di Candia grapes, has aromas of citrus, tropical and stone fruits, and is dry with lively acidity and a light body. Perfect!

Okay, so let’s take a more in depth look at Cretan wine.

Greco-Roman Period

During the Greco-Roman era, Cretan wines gained fame throughout the Mediterranean. The Roman author Pliny the Elder praised Cretan wines in his writings, particularly noting a sweet wine called "protropos" that was highly valued in Rome.

Venetian Influence and Malvasia

The Venetian rule (1204-1669) marked a golden age for Cretan wine production. The sweet wine known as Malvasia, produced from sun-dried grapes (primarily Liatiko), became famous throughout Europe. Malvasia was so prized that Venetian ships stopping in Crete were required by law to load a certain amount of the wine before continuing their journey.

Decline and Modern Revival

Wine production declined during the Ottoman rule (1669-1898) and faced further challenges in the early 20th century due to phylloxera outbreaks and political upheaval. However, since the 1980s, Crete has experienced a wine renaissance. Modern winemakers have revitalized the industry by combining traditional methods with contemporary technology and focusing on quality over quantity.

Decline and Modern Revival

Wine production declined during the Ottoman rule (1669-1898) and faced further challenges in the early 20th century due to phylloxera outbreaks and political upheaval. However, since the 1980s, Crete has experienced a wine renaissance. Modern winemakers have revitalized the industry by combining traditional methods with contemporary technology and focusing on quality over quantity.

Grape Varieties

Crete is home to a wealth of indigenous grape varieties, many of which are found nowhere else in the world. Some of the most notable are:

White Varieties

1. Vidiano: Often considered Crete's flagship white variety, Vidiano produces full-bodied wines with aromas of ripe peach, apricot, and subtle hints of herbs. It has good acidity and a creamy texture, often with a mineral finish. Best enjoyed from a Riesling glass.
2. Vilana: Known for crisp, light-bodied wines with citrus and floral notes. It's often blended with other varieties to add freshness and aroma. Best enjoyed from a Viognier glass.
3. Thrapsathiri: Produces full-bodied wines with notes of tropical fruits, herbs, and a distinctive honey character. It's sometimes blended with Vilana. Best enjoyed from a Sauvignon Blanc glass.
4. Dafni: An ancient variety recently revived, known for its distinctive bay leaf aroma (hence the name, which means "laurel" in Greek) and citrus notes. Best enjoyed from a Sauvignon Blanc glass.
5. Plyto: Another recently revived ancient variety, producing wines with citrus and herbal notes, high acidity, and a mineral character. Best enjoyed from a Sauvignon Blanc glass.

Red Varieties

1. Kotsifali: Often blended with Mandilari, this variety produces wines with red fruit flavours, good acidity, and aging potential. It's known for its aromatic intensity with notes of red berries and spices. Best enjoyed from a Cabernet Sauvignon glass.
2. Mandilari: A deeply coloured red grape that adds structure and tannins to blends. It's known for its high antioxidant content and produces wines with flavours of dark fruits and herbs. Best enjoyed from a Pinot Noir glass.
3. Liatiko: Used for both dry and sweet wines, known for its light colour and delicate aromas of red fruits and flowers. It's the primary grape used in traditional sweet Malvasia wines. Best enjoyed from a Pinot Noir glass.
4. Romeiko: Primarily grown in western Crete, it's used for both red and rosé wines. It has a unique ability to produce naturally sweet wines through a process called "liastos" (sun-drying). Best enjoyed from a Port glass.

Traditional Winemaking Practices

Cretan winemakers are employing traditional techniques alongside modern methods:

• Sun-drying grapes: Used to concentrate sugars for sweet wine production, particularly for Malvasia wines. Grapes are left in the sun for 7-10 days before pressing.
• Barrel aging: Often using local oak to impart unique flavours. Some producers are experimenting with chestnut barrels, a practice with historical roots on the island.
• Clay amphora fermentation: Some producers are reviving this ancient method for natural wine production. The porous nature of the clay allows for micro-oxygenation, resulting in unique flavour profiles.
• Bush vines: Many old vineyards, especially in mountainous areas, still use the traditional bush vine (gobelet) training system, which helps protect grapes from strong winds and intense sunlight.

Modern Innovations

Contemporary Cretan winemakers are embracing innovation while respecting tradition:

• Implementing temperature-controlled fermentation for fresher, more aromatic wines, particularly beneficial for white varieties like Vidiano and Vilana.
• Experimenting with international varieties like Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay, often blended with local grapes to create unique flavour profiles.
• Adopting organic and biodynamic farming practices to produce more sustainable wines and express the terroir more clearly.
• Utilizing modern pressing techniques and equipment to extract maximum flavour and colour while minimizing harsh tannins.
• Implementing precision viticulture techniques, including GPS mapping of vineyards and drone surveillance, to optimize grape quality.

Cretan Wine and Food

Where Cretan wines come into their own is, unsurprisingly, when paired with Cretan cuisine. Known for its fresh ingredients, olive oil, herbs, and diverse flavours, researchers first documented the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet on Crete.

White Wines

1. Vidiano:

• Seafood: Grilled octopus, sea bream, or lobster.
• Cheese: Cretan graviera or mild goat’s cheese.
• Vegetables: Stuffed courgette flowers or dolmades. We had dinner, with the family and friends of the owner of our hotel, one night, which included stuffed courgette flowers that his father had picked that morning. Delicious.
• International: Sushi, especially with fatty fish like salmon or tuna.
• Vilana:

• Seafood: Fried small fish (marida), grilled sardines, or seafood salad.
• Cheese: Fresh Cretan mizithra, ricotta or feta.
• Vegetables: Greek salad (horiatiki) or grilled vegetables.
• International: Light Asian stir-fries or ceviche.
• Thrapsathiri:

• Poultry: Roasted chicken with lemon and herbs.
• Cheese: Aged Cretan graviera or kefalograviera.
• Pasta: Seafood linguine or vegetable lasagna.
• International: Creamy risottos or mild Indian curries.

Red Wines

1. Kotsifali-Mandilari Blend:

• Meat: Grilled lamb chops, beef stifado, or wild boar sausages.
• Cheese: Aged Cretan graviera or kefalotyri.
• Vegetables: Stuffed tomatoes or aubergine dishes like moussaka
• International: Barbecued ribs or beef brisket.
• Liatiko (dry):

• Meat: Roasted pork or rabbit stew.
• Cheese: Semi-hard cheeses like Cretan graviera or Greek halloumi.
• Vegetables: Grilled mushrooms or vegetable briam (a casserole of roasted potatoes, courgette, red onions, and tomatoes).
• International: Peking duck or Turkish kebabs.
• Romeiko:

• Meat: Grilled chicken souvlaki or pork gyros.
• Cheese: Cretan mizithra or Greek feta.
• Vegetables: Tomato-based dishes or Greek spinach pie (spanakopita).
• International: Tapas or Middle Eastern mezze platters.

Sweet Wines

1. Liatiko (sweet) or Malvasia:

• Desserts: Cretan kalitsounia (sweet cheese pastries), baklava, or fruit tarts.
• Cheese: Blue cheeses like Roquefort or Gorgonzola.
• Savory: Foie gras or pâtés.
• International: Dark chocolate desserts or crème brûlée.

General Pairing Principles

• Match the body of the wine with the intensity of the food. Lighter dishes pair well with crisp whites like Vilana, while hearty meat dishes complement full-bodied reds like Kotsifali-Mandilari blends.
• Consider the cooking method. Grilled foods often pair well with oak-aged wines, while fresh, raw dishes complement unoaked whites.
• Don't forget about sauces and seasonings. The abundant use of herbs in Cretan cuisine often pairs beautifully with the herbal notes in many Cretan wines.
• Experiment with contrasts. Sometimes, the acidity in a Vidiano can beautifully cut through the richness of a creamy dish.

Conclusion

Cretan wines offer a unique taste of the island's rich history and diverse terroir. From ancient Minoan times to the present day, winemaking has been an integral part of Cretan culture. With its wealth of indigenous varieties, blend of traditional and modern techniques, and perfect companionship to the island's celebrated cuisine, Crete continues to produce wines that captivate enthusiasts around the world.

As the island's wine industry evolves, it maintains a deep connection to its roots, ensuring that each bottle tells a story of Cretan heritage, innovation, and the sun-soaked Mediterranean landscape.

I’ll leave the last word to “wine surveyor” Giorgos Makris,

“If your view about Cretan wines is based on memories and knowledge of the past, then it is imperative that you reconsider. The new generation of Cretan wines is not what you once knew or what you remember. Contemporary bottled Cretan wines have nothing to envy from the wines of any other popular wine region.”

Couldn’t have put it better myself!