Why Your Wine Snob Friend is Wrong About Merlot
Next Thursday, November 7th, is International Merlot Day, so to celebrate I am going to tell you a little bit about this fruity favourite. This grape is popular, and rightly so, it's subtle, but wide ranging, flavours means that there is never a wrong time to open a bottle (OK, maybe not for breakfast!).
Whether you want to enjoy a glass on its own or pair it with food, from cheese to steak, there will be a perfect bottle for everyone. Grown all around the world it's easily accessible and is also available in a wide range of styles and prices.
So, to help you find your favourite Merlot I have done a bit of research.
What is Merlot?
Merlot is a red wine variety that is grown all over the world. For those of us who haven't done any French since school, it is pronounced "mur-loh" or "mair-loh" and is derived from the French word for "little blackbird". Due to its gentle flavours and ability to grow in almost any warm climate, it has become one of the world’s most popular wines.
What does Merlot look like?
Merlot is a beautiful purple skinned grape that is used for red wine production. Once made into wine its deep red colour and medium to full body means this fruity red falls somewhere between a Pinot Noir and a Syrah wine.
A Rich History: From Bordeaux's Secret to Global Stardom
Merlot's story begins in the verdant landscapes of Bordeaux, where it was first documented in 1784. The name 'Merlot' is thought to derive from 'merle', the French word for blackbird, either due to the grape's dark colour or the birds' fondness for the ripe fruit.
In the 18th century, Merlot was primarily known as a blending grape in Bordeaux, particularly prized for its ability to soften the austere tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon. However, it was the vintners of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol who truly recognised its potential as a standalone variety. By the early 19th century, estates like Château Pétrus were crafting exceptional wines predominantly from Merlot, setting new standards for what the grape could achieve.
The phylloxera crisis of the late 19th century nearly spelled disaster, but Merlot emerged stronger. When Bordeaux's vineyards were replanted, many chose to increase their Merlot plantings, appreciating its earlier ripening nature and resistance to various vineyard maladies. This decision would shape the region's future and influence winemaking globally.
The late 20th century saw Merlot's popularity soar internationally, particularly in the New World. California's Merlot boom of the 1990s brought both opportunities and challenges, with mass-produced examples temporarily diluting the grape's reputation. However, serious producers worldwide continued to demonstrate Merlot's capability for producing profound, age-worthy wines.
Food Pairings: A Masterclass in Versatility
Classic Meat Pairings
- Roast lamb with rosemary and garlic: The wine's plush tannins and herbal notes create a sublime partnership
- Duck breast with cherry sauce: Merlot's natural cherry flavours amplify the sauce whilst cutting through the rich meat
- Beef Wellington: The mushroom duxelles and pastry find perfect harmony with Merlot's earthy undertones
- Venison casserole: The wine's structure supports the game without overpowering it
Vegetarian Delights
- Wild mushroom risotto with truffle oil: Echoes Merlot's earthy characteristics
- Aubergine Parmigiana: The wine's acidity balances the rich tomato sauce
- Lentil and chestnut loaf: The wine's soft tannins complement earthy pulses
- Grilled Portobello mushrooms: Enhances the umami qualities in both wine and food
Cheese Companions
- Aged Gouda: The wine's fruit matches the cheese's caramel notes
- Comté: A 24-month aged Comté creates a beautiful textural partnership
- Saint-Nectaire: The earthy rind complements Merlot's forest floor notes
- Pecorino: The sheep's milk tanginess finds balance in the wine's roundness
Global Cuisine Matches
- Korean bulgogi: The sweet-savoury marinade works beautifully with Merlot's fruit
- Mexican mole sauce: The chocolate notes in both create a harmonious bridge
- Moroccan tagine: The wine's spice notes complement the complex seasonings
- Japanese teriyaki: The sauce's sweetness matches Merlot's ripe fruit character
Current Trends in Merlot Production
The latest wave of Merlot producers are focusing on:
- Lower alcohol levels and earlier harvesting for more elegance
- Sustainable and organic farming practices
- Single-vineyard expressions showcasing terroir
- Minimal intervention winemaking to express varietal purity
Regional Excellence
Right Bank Bordeaux: The Spiritual Home
In Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, Merlot reaches its peak expression. Here, the clay-rich soils and maritime climate create wines of extraordinary depth. Château Pétrus, composed of nearly 100% Merlot, stands as testament to the grape's potential for greatness. I particularly recommend exploring the somewhat more accessible Meerlust Merlot, from Stellenbosch, whose 2021 vintage offers an exceptional price-to-quality ratio.
Tuscany: The Italian Renaissance
Italian producers, particularly in Bolgheri and the broader Tuscan coast, have worked wonders with Merlot. Masseto, the legendary 100% Merlot wine, rivals the finest Bordeaux.
New World Innovations
- Napa Valley: The warm climate produces riper, more voluptuous Merlots
- Washington State: In the Columbia Valley, cooler nights help maintain acidity
- Chile: The Colchagua Valley produces some remarkably elegant examples
A Toast to Merlot
Well, there you have it - Merlot's gone from being the wine world's wallflower, to the life and soul of the party.
It's no longer that safe, middle-of-the-road option you grab from Waitrose when you can't decide what to have with dinner.
So next time someone starts going on about their fancy Cab Sav or trendy natural wine, just smile knowingly and pour yourself a glass of Merlot. After all, you're now in on one of wine's best-kept secrets - that this supposedly 'simple' grape has more plots twists than a Netflix series and more charm than a young Hugh Grant.
Here's to Merlot - the comeback kid that never really needed to come back at all.